Black and White Image Converter
Turn any photo greyscale, sepia or true one-bit black and white, with the same channel filters film photographers used. Runs in your browser — nothing is uploaded.
Updated May 2026 · Free · Works entirely in your browser
Greyscale, monochrome and true black and white are three different things
People use the words interchangeably and then wonder why the result is not what they pictured. Greyscale keeps every tone between black and white — a photograph stays a photograph, it just loses its colour. Monochrome means a single hue, so sepia and cyanotype are monochrome but not greyscale. True black and white, properly called one-bit or bitonal, allows only two values: a pixel is either black or white, with nothing in between.
Choose by what the image is for. Greyscale for photographs. Sepia for a deliberately aged look. True black and white for scanned text, signatures, stencils, vinyl cutting and laser engraving, where anything grey has to be resolved one way or the other before the machine can use it.
Why the channel filters matter
Before digital, photographers screwed coloured glass onto the lens to change how black and white film rendered colours. A red filter darkened blue skies until the clouds leapt out; a green one lifted foliage. The same physics applies here, because converting to grey means deciding how much each colour channel contributes.
| Method | What it does | Use it for |
|---|---|---|
| Greyscale (luminance) | Weights green most, blue least, matching how the eye perceives brightness | The safe default for any photograph |
| Flat average | Treats the three channels equally | Graphics and charts where perceptual accuracy does not matter |
| Red filter | Skin and reds go light, blue sky goes near black | Portraits, dramatic landscapes |
| Green filter | Foliage lightens, skin darkens slightly | Gardens, forests, anything green-dominant |
| Blue filter | Skies lighten, skin goes dark and blotchy | Moody, high-grain looks — rarely for faces |
| Sepia | Greyscale tinted warm brown | Period styling, family history projects |
| True black and white | Every pixel forced to black or white at the cut-off you set | Scans, line art, stencils, laser and vinyl cutting |
Getting a scanned document right
Scans are the most common reason people reach for true black and white, and the cut-off slider is the whole game. Set it too low and faint pencil or a light signature disappears; set it too high and the paper's own texture, shadows and show-through from the other side of the page turn into speckle.
Start at the default, then nudge until the text is solid and the background is clean. If one corner of the page is shadowed and refuses to clear, raise the brightness a little before adjusting the cut-off — that lifts the whole page relative to the threshold rather than sacrificing the text.
What black and white does to file size
- Greyscale JPG — typically 20 to 30% smaller than the colour original, because the chroma channels carry no information.
- Greyscale PNG — a similar saving on photographs, much larger on flat graphics.
- True black and white PNG — often a tenth the size of a colour scan, because vast areas of identical white compress almost to nothing.
That last one is why fax machines and document management systems standardised on bitonal images decades ago, and why it is still the right format for archiving a filing cabinet.
A note on printing
A greyscale file printed on a colour inkjet is often mixed from several inks, which is why prints can come out with a green or magenta cast. If the print matters, ask the printer driver for "black ink only" or "greyscale" rather than relying on the file alone. For anything going to a commercial press, talk to the printer before converting — they may want the original colour file so they can control the conversion themselves.
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View on AmazonFrequently Asked Questions
Everything you need to know about image conversion.